Ankara: The Misunderstood Stepmother of Cities

“Ankara is like a kind-hearted stepmother,” said Cemal Süreya — and I totally get it now.

As a born-and-raised Istanbulite who’s spent the last four years “exiled” in Ankara, I decided it’s time to do this city justice. No, I don’t love Ankara the way I love Istanbul. And yes, compared to Istanbul, it may feel like there’s not much going on. But honestly, Ankara doesn’t deserve all the slander. It has its own rhythm, charm, and yes — lots of places worth discovering.

Here’s my take on what to do and where to go in Ankara (from someone who was reluctant at first too):

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METU (Middle East Technical University)

Of course, I’m biased, but METU deserves top billing. Come lounge on the grass at Devrim Stadium, take a jog, or play billiards at the campus market (Çarşı). Don’t miss out on budget-friendly breakfast spreads at Teras or Kebap1956 (around 8-9 TL per person), or try the pay-by-weight buffet at Çatı Café. Getting in might be tricky — but hey, I’m just an email away if you need help at the gate. Promise!

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Bahçelievler 7th Street

A pleasant avenue lined with cafes and shops — perfect for a long walk with coffee in hand.

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Tunalı Hilmi Street & Kuğulu Park

Kuğulu Park may be tiny, but it’s peaceful and beloved by locals. Located right on Tunalı Hilmi Street, which is packed with upscale shops and chic cafés.

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Anıtkabir

The mausoleum of Atatürk. It gives me goosebumps every single time. A must-visit — no discussion.

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Eymir Lake

Owned by METU, this lake is a little oasis. You can rent bikes, go kayaking, grab a bite, and just breathe. It doesn’t even feel like Ankara. And the grilled fish sandwich? A total win.

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☕ Hamamönü

A picture-perfect neighborhood where you’ll find budget-friendly breakfasts and lovely cafes. Feels like you’ve left the city entirely. Don’t miss the vintage shops and record stores up the hill.

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Ankara Castle

Want a panoramic view of the city? Head here. No, it’s not quite the Bosphorus, but it has its own charm. Just… keep an eye on the kids — no safety barriers around the cliffs!

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Gölbaşı

Think of it as Eymir Lake’s bigger sibling, though it’s a bit farther out. Bitez Yalısı Restaurant by the water comes highly recommended.

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Gençlik Park

An amusement park and much more. Visit at night to catch the water and light shows. You’ll also find quiet walking areas and plenty of benches.

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Dikmen Valley

A green escape for walking, picnicking, or just zoning out in nature. Wooden tables, cafes, and even a mini amusement park for kids — it’s peace in the middle of the city.

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Belpa Ice Rink

A huge rink in Bahçelievler. Public hours vary (usually weekday mornings or weekend afternoons). Sessions cost around 10 TL. Fun — just try not to break a bone.

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Where to Eat & Chill in Ankara?

Vadi Bar (Kızılay)

Don’t let the name fool you — this isn’t a thumping club. Think cozy vibes, good food, indie music, and student-friendly prices.

Telwe & Eski-Yeni Bar (Kızılay)

Weekend live music, high energy, and perfect for a night out. Guaranteed fun.

OT Café (Tunalı & Kızılay)

Poetry on the walls, unforgettable food, and the best waffle I’ve had. The Tunalı branch is legendary. Go. Now.

Devrez (Esat)

A kebab joint famous for… its soup. Yes, soup. The best I’ve ever had. Bold claim, I know — but go taste it and see.

Çukurağa Sofrası (Emek)

Endless appetizers, amazing kebabs, and a high chance you’ll be full before your actual meal arrives. Make a reservation!

Marco Pascha (Bahçeli)

A stylish spot for drinks and hookah. Food isn’t stellar, but vibes are on point.

Fidan Kültür Café (Kızılay)

Laid-back with live music, great gözleme, and backgammon or book-reading vibes. One of my all-time favorites.

Atatürk Forest Farm (AOÇ)

Come here late at night and grab kokoreç like a true local. One of the few places in Ankara that’s open 24/7.

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Shopping Malls Galore (Because… Ankara)

Yep, we love our malls — especially when it’s freezing out.

• Kentpark & Cepa: Side-by-side on Eskişehir Road. Great variety. Kentpark even has a bowling alley.
• Armada: Luxe, but feels a bit gloomy and usually quiet.
• Next Level: Across from Armada. Small but fancy. Yes, they have Victoria’s Secret.
• Taurus: A fave of mine. Beautiful interior, solid store variety.
• Gordion: All the essentials under one Ümitköy roof.
• Panora: Elite Oran vibes. Nice, but not worth a special trip.
• IKEA & A City: Way out there, but good outlet shopping (Lacoste, Burberry, etc.).
• Optimum Outlet: Great prices, especially for Koton & Mavi. Bonus: an indoor ice rink!

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